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REI Kawakubo’sMasculine (un)conformity

Spring/Summer 2019

“A (re)invention of radical chic in times of never-ending streetwear”

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus is well-known for challenging the concept of conventional menswear. For Spring/Summer 2019 Rei Kawakubo questioned herself about the (re)appearance of tailoring naming her Homme Plus collection “Crazy Suits.”
The show at Paris Fashion Week kicked off with models dressed in black suits inspired by the Comme des Garçons’s design heritage. The models styled up as Ken dolls appeared from behind a cage-like wall at the end of the runway wearing plastic wigs.
What followed was an introduction of eccentric suits, extravagant patchworks, unstructured tailoring, flower prints and an amalgamation of bright and bold colours. Rei Kawakubo
continues to accentuate the question on the perception of menswear while combining French classical ensembles with typical Japanese garments. The extravagant collection which featured ruffled tuxedos and silk shirts in expressive pink and blue tones as well as colourful flower prints was emphasised by the well-known
reptile accessories. In line with their continuous collaborations, the CdG HOMME Plus Spring/Summer 2019 show also unveiled the rework of the popular Nike Presto model by Comme des Garçons and Nike.
Maintaining the overall shape of the shoe, Comme des Garçons removed the original lacing and cage system going for a laceless look featuring new colour combinations and a unique
textile mix.

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junya-watanabe-fw17
JUNYA WATA-
NABEThe new male mentality

The times when men enjoyed to dress-up for their own sake, wearing a suit and tie, are (almost) over. Today the cool guys — no matter if workies, show-offs or old dudes — break the rules, at least concerning their wardrobe.

High-end designers have approved the democratization of street culture in the elitist luxury industry. Today’s most desirables brands achieved to satisfy the new fashion cravings by mixing the luxury savoir-faire with socio-cultural statements and thus created a completely new fashion spirit.

Junya

The times when men enjoyed to dress-up for their own sake, wearing a suit and tie, are (almost) over. Today the cool guys — no matter if workies, show-offs or old dudes — break the rules, at least concerning their wardrobe.

High-end designers have approved the democratization of street culture in the elitist luxury industry. Today’s most desirables brands achieved to satisfy the new fashion cravings by mixing the luxury savoir-faire with socio-cultural statements and thus created a completely new fashion spirit.

junya-watanabe

junya-watanabe-fw17
Welcoming the Nineties back by reinventing existing iconic sportswear pieces

While the last few collections of the Comme des Garçons-backed label were dominated by the suit, the Watanabe ingeniously reinvented existing iconic sportswear pieces by teaming up with brands like The North Face, Carhartt, and Levi’s for Fall/Winter 17.

Junya

While the last few collections of the Comme des Garçons-backed label were dominated by the suit, the Watanabe ingeniously reinvented existing iconic sportswear pieces by teaming up with brands like The North Face, Carhartt, and Levi’s for Fall/Winter 17.

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Being aspirational and accessible at the same time
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The collaborative pieces of The North Face and Carhartt are pattern-heavy wares including academic outerwear, motorcycle jackets, patchwork clothing, knits and more with an emphasis on practicality and functionality.

The Levi’s one welcomes the Nineties back with wide-leg and baggy jeans featuring extra large pockets. Watanabe introduced himself in the world of young designers obsessed with sportswear of the Nineties while continuing to honour authenticity and the use of traditional manufacturing.
Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 17 collection is aspirational and accessible at the same time. It’s all about looking cool and ordinary in a fast-paced and freaky world. Got it Junya.

The collaborative pieces of The North Face and Carhartt are pattern-heavy wares including academic outerwear, motorcycle jackets, patchwork clothing, knits and more with an emphasis on practicality and functionality.

Junya

The Levi’s one welcomes the Nineties back with wide-leg and baggy jeans featuring extra large pockets. Watanabe introduced himself in the world of young designers obsessed with sportswear of the Nineties while continuing to honour authenticity and the use of traditional manufacturing.
Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 17 collection is aspirational and accessible at the same time. It’s all about looking cool and ordinary in a fast-paced and freaky world. Got it Junya.

junya-fall-winter-men
rick-owens
Rick
Owens
Men's
Spring
2018

For his Men’s SS18 show, Rick Owens had elaborated a complex construct in the parvis of his favorite building in Paris, the Palais de Tokyo. The 90s song “I Need a Freak” from Egyptian Lover was the only one throughout the whole show and reflected Owen’s main message: Feeling like a freak currently in fashion and acknowledging it is just really satisfying.

rick-owens-ss18

For his Men’s SS18 show, Rick Owens had elaborated a complex construct in the parvis of his favorite building in Paris, the Palais de Tokyo. The 90s song “I Need a Freak” from Egyptian Lover was the only one throughout the whole show and reflected Owen’s main message: Feeling like a freak currently in fashion and acknowledging it is just really satisfying.

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Virgil
Abloh's
EM PTY GALLERY
exhibition
"an inside look into the
OFF-WHITE men's
Spring/Summer 2018 runway show"

The exhibition featured pieces curated by Milan-based photographer Piotr Niepsuj. Virgil Abloh, founder of Miland-based fashion label Off-White and creative director for Kanye West, opened his pop-up Empty Gallery as a preview of his soon-to-arrive store in New York City.

rickowens
EM PTY GALLERY
exhibition
"an inside look into the
OFF-WHITE men's
Spring/Summer 2018 runway show"

The exhibition featured pieces curated by Milan-based photographer Piotr Niepsuj. Virgil Abloh, founder of Miland-based fashion label Off-White and creative director for Kanye West, opened his pop-up Empty Gallery as a preview of his soon-to-arrive store in New York City.

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The Yves Klein blue box, in which projections of Virgil's Pitti Uomo Off-White show were displayed, as well as the physical collection itself. Klein's visual impact comes from its heavy reliance on ultramarine, as well as his textured application of paint to canvas.

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offwhite

A foretaste on Abloh's SS18 shoes: New Off-Court high-tops with tag detailing, bright orange Timberland boots,
drawstring sandals and a never-before-seen Vans collaboration, just to give you some insights.

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Heron
Preston Spring Summer 18 Presentation

Designer and artist Heron Preston introduces a full womenswear offering alongside his menswear collection for Spring 2018. Event joined by Bella Hadid, Virgil Abloh, Jim Nelson, Jim Moore, Jerry Lorenzo, Reece Solomon, Ian Bradley, Karl Cyprien, Simon Rasmussen, Sabrina Fuentes and many more.

Heron-Preston-SS18

Designer and artist heron Preston introduces a full womenswear offering alongside his menswear collection for Spring 2018. Event joined by Bella Hadid, Virgil Abloh, Jim Nelson, Jim Moore, Jerry Lorenzo, Reece Solomon, Ian Bradley, Karl Cyprien, Simon Rasmussen, Sabrina Fuentes and many more.

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